I have nearly 90 minutes to make the transfer from the Glacier Express to the Postauto. I store my luggage at the station and then go for a walk around old Andermatt. The bus stop for the Postauto is right opposite the station. The bus 110 takes you up the mighty St. Gotthard to the pass the links Canton Uri to Canton Ticino. The last bus leaves at 18h30. Before that, there’s a bus every three hours.

There are just three passengers on the bus this evening. The journey to the pass is roughly 25 minutes and takes us up a winded road along the side of the mountain.

Much to my surprise, it’s rather busy at the top. There are parking lots for campers, and most of them are occupied. The Gotthard pass is at 2100 m elevation, so it’s well above the tree line.

There are two guest houses on the pass. One is an ancient looking albergo, which is where check-in for both houses is done. It’s also where the restaurant is located. If you’re planning a stay, make sure to book a table ahead! And then there’s the Gotthard Hospiz, which is a much newer building located right behind the albergo.

The rooms are simple. This being Switzerland, despite it being a one star establishment, it’s spotlessly clean and very well maintained.

There are different room types and sizes. Seeing as I do by now consider myself an old fart, I think I’m past sharing an accommodations for six persons.

My room on the sixth floor has two beds and comes with a small washroom.

The view from the window is breath taking.

Breakfast is served in the old Gotthard museum, adjacent to the souvenir shop. It’s basically a very big hall with long tables and benches. They serve a good selection of breads, butter, jam, various types of cheese, birchermüseli, juices and hot drinks.

So the next morning, all bright eyed and bushy tailed and full of tasty breakfast and mountain cheese, I set out. The aim is to hike down to Andermatt, where I‘ll be staying for most of the coming week. The yellow signs mark hiking routes. The red and white tip of the arrow indicates a Bergweg, so a mountain route. At regular intervals along the route you can spot white and red markings painted on rocks to guide the way.

There are two routes from the pass down to Andermatt. The long route will take you six hours. The short route, which I‘m taking, is estimated to take three hours. Although it ends up being slightly over four hours, including a break at the midway point to enjoy the scenery.

The trail takes you from the pass down to Hospental, and then from there to Andermatt. It‘s a lovely hike, the weather is fantastic and there‘s a refreshing breeze.

Even with my herniated discs the walk down is manageable. The gradient of the descent/ascent is not too bad and a lot kinder on the legs than the hike from the Rothorn down to Brienz, for example, which is a killer. Other than that, I am amazed, yet again, by Switzerland’s natural beauty!