Introduction

I’m finally on my way home. For my return from Skopje to Switzerland I investigated several options, before eventually settling on Croatia Airlines. Mainly, because the Skopje to Zagreb leg is operated by an Airbus A 220-300, which is always a very pleasant ride. Croatia Airlines offers Business Class fares ex Skopje, but frankly, after my last experience with them flying from Paris to Zagreb, it’s probably safe to say that paying to fly Business Class with them would be an utter waste of money or points.

Getting to the Airport

The flight to Zagreb departs Skopje at 15h55. I exit the Skopje Marriott at 13h00, which should get me to the airport by 13h30, two hours before boarding starts. I step out into the midday sun like a mad dog or an Englishman. God, it’s so hot. The thermometer shows an outside temperature of 41 degrees Celsius. It’s the kind of dry heat that has you feeling the moisture on your lips dry up immediately, leaving you parched and desperate to escape the heat and find respite in the shade.

Check-In

A little less than 24 hours before departure, I access the Croatia Airlines app to attempt to check in. However, unless you have a profile, the app will not store your booking data. So first, I have to go rummaging through my inbox to find the booking confirmation with the PNR code so I can check in. But that doesn’t work either on the app. Eventually, when I access the Croatia Airlines website, I somehow end up being referred to a website that allows me to check in online. However, all I get is a two page pdf to print. There is no electronic boarding pass for the Wallet app and the pdfs explicitly state that they need to be printed to be used.

It’s 13h35 when I arrive at the airport, and apparently, check-in for the Zagreb flight won’t start for another twenty minutes. While I wait, I have myself one last Šopska salad and a cheese borek with a cappuccino.

There are two counters open for Croatia Airlines, right next to the ones for the Air Serbia flight to Belgrade. One counter is for Economy Class and the other for Business Class and Star Gold passengers.

From check-in I go upstairs to passport control and security. I think this must be the grumpiest immigration officer I’ve ever come across. I simply say “hello” and I swear she glowers at me, clearly not in the mood for niceties today.

Skopje Airport Prime Class Lounge

There is only one contractor lounge at Skopje Airport, which is the Prime Class Lounge. I walk up to reception fully expecting the receptionist to tell me that I have no access as I’m flying Economy Class. But she scans the boarding pass, asks to see my Senator card and then simply welcomes me to the lounge.

The lounge is not very large, but it’s certainly better than nothing. In the right corner is a small bar and buffet. In the centre is an attended bar that also serves alcoholic beverages. What is really very good, though, is the view of the ramp directly in front of the lounge.

The lounge is a bit of a mess, though, and nobody seems to be in a hurry to clear up.

Boarding

The inbound from Zagreb touches down at 15h25, running twenty minutes late, and then slowly taxies to it stand right in front of the Prime Class Lounge.

Boarding is supposed to start at 15h25. However, eventually we don’t start boarding until 15h50. The gate agents make an announcement for Miles & More HONs and SENs to board first, but nobody seems to be paying attention to the announcement – not even the gate agents. It doesn’t really matter, as the flight is only about half full anyway.

The Cabin & Seat

Well, this is rather posh. The aircraft looks brand new and even still has that smell of new airplane. It’s an attractive cabin that is comfortable and spacious.

There are four rows of Business Class on this flight. However, none of the seats are occupied. I am on 5A, which is the window seat on the first row of Economy Class, right behind the cabin divider. The seat pitch is very good on row 5, and every seat has a USB and USB C power socket. The headrest is adjustable in height and has ears for extra support.

The Service & Crew

The crew really have their work cut out for them on this flight. Once boarding is done, they make a first attempt to do the safety on board demonstration. But the two ladies seated right behind me won’t stop yapping, and Mr 6E is obviously annoyed by the announcements interfering with his football viewing on his mobile – so he just cranks the volume as far as it will go. The demonstration stops abruptly and the crew not so nicely tell the ladies on 6A and B to shut their trap, and Mr 6E to pay attention. It doesn’t really work, but the demonstration starts again from the beginning.

The captain welcomes us aboard and informs us of a delay of 35 minutes due to an en route restriction. While we wait, the weather outside starts to deteriorate. The wind picks up significantly, to the point that it’s gently rocking our aircraft. In the distance I can see lightning closing in around us and I can hear thunder nearby. I don’t think we’ll be going anywhere anytime soon. No sooner have I finished that thought, we start pushing back and I am more than just slightly alarmed.

We taxi to the active runway and the aircraft is still shaking with the wind. The lightning has increased and I’m wondering if they seriously think we should be flying in this weather. I think the crew is not so sure either because we enter the runway and line up for take-off. And then we wait. After about five minutes the cockpit calls out “cabin crew prepare for take-off”. And then we start accelerating down the runway, veering from side to side as the strong cross wind catches the wings and jostles the aircraft about violently. We leave the ground, and that’s when it gets really bad. The aircraft is being pelted with ice and there’s ice building up on the nacelle. And it’s very bumpy!

Things finally start to calm down after about 25 minutes, when we slowly emerge from the clouds.

The Snack

At some point, we’re clear of the weather and cruising through a pristine blue sky, flying along the Adriatic coast. The service starts rather abruptly. It consists of either still or sparkling water and a packet of savoury crackers.

After the trash is collected, I quickly visit the rear toilet, and I’m amazed by just how spacious and nice it is. Meanwhile, the crew have settled in on the last row and are having a coffee and a little natter. I always find that rather unprofessional when the crew just sit there instead of doing their job, like filling up and replenishing the hand towels and toilet roll that have ran out in the rear lavatory.

Arrival in Zagreb

Our flight time to Zagreb is one hour and fifteen minutes. By the time we land, it’s 18h10, twenty minutes past the departure time of my connection to Zürich. I can see a Dash 8-400 of Croatia Airlines on stand, so I’m kind of hopeful that it may be my ride to Zürich.

Conclusion

The A 220-300 is a lovely aircraft and always a pleasure to experience as a passenger. I’m really not impressed by Croatia Airlines, though. If they have to reduce the service to the minimum to cut costs, that’s one thing. But it doesn’t explain the rather obvious lack of interest and motivation of the crew. Other than that, I must say that I really didn’t feel comfortable on this flight, and I question the flight crew’s decision to take off in the weather conditions over Skopje Airport at the time.