Introduction

It’s been a month since my last post, and I haven’t set foot on a plane since my return from Australia in the summer. Of course I couldn’t do completely without travel during my downtime. However, since my last post I’ve stayed closer to home, travelling mainly around Switzerland and France by train. So let’s just slowly ease back into things with a post of a recent hiking trip I did to Rütli, which is a lush green meadow overlooking Lake Lucerne, and where Uri, Schwyz and Unterwalden took an oath – the Rütli Schwur – to join forces against the rule of the vicious Habsburg governors way back in 1291. The Rütli is where the Swiss Federation traditionally celebrates its national day on 1 August. A hiking trail runs from the Rütli around the southern tip of the lake, all the way to Brunnen. And today I’ve decided to take advantage of the gorgeous autumn weather and take a hike along part of the trail from Rütli to Isleten.

First leg: Basel to Lucerne

I catch the 07h16 train from Basel to Lucerne, which is a journey of one hour and fifteen minutes. The service is operated by one of those dreadful trains the rattle your brain with all the shaking it does.

I have 40 minutes in Lucerne before the boat leaves, so I take a leisurely stroll through the old town, past the iconic Kapellbrücke, the covered bridge.

By the time I return to the lake and the lido opposite the railway station, my boat to Rütli has already arrived. Today’s service is operated by Schwyz. The journey to Rütli takes two hours and fifteen minutes, and I have made a reservation for a late breakfast for two on the boat.

Second leg: Lucerne to Rütli

Like the trains, the boats on Lake Lucerne have a First and Second Class cabin. On the Schwyz the First Class section is on the upper deck.

The breakfast consists of a glass of orange juice, tea or coffee, bread, butter, jam and cheese. Additional items, like eggs and fried bacon, can be ordered separately. For me, this is my idea of bliss, watching the world go by while having breakfast on the water.

Third leg: Rütli to Isleten

I alight at Rütli and walk up to the meadow, which is a walk of about ten minutes from the shore. You’ll know you’ve arrived because there’s a tall flag pole marking the location.

From the Rütli it’s a steep ascent to Seelisberg, which sits perched on the side of the mountain. Most of the trail is protected from the sun by the trees. I would say this part of the trail requires a moderate level of fitness. Alternatively, if you prefer a more leisurely experience, you can already leave the boat a Treib, two stops before Rütli, and take the train up to Seelisberg.

The picture below is interesting. Mainly, because the mural behind the speaker’s podium in the larger chamber of the federal parliament in Berne depicts the precise same scene.

The signposts on the hiking trail estimate the journey time from Rütli to Isleten as being four hours. However, we managed in about three hours and half, and that included plenty of stops to take photos and short breaks.

Fourth leg: Isleten to Flüelen

From Isleten, I take a boat to Flüelen, which is one stop and the southernmost port on the lake. As my luck would have it, the service is operated by the Uri, an old steamboat that was commissioned in 1901.

The boat landing in Flüelen sits right next to the railway station on the main line to Lucerne. From here, you can either keep on going up into the mountains to Andermatt and the Gotthard massiv, or you can catch a direct train back to Lucerne.

I spend the night at the Berggasthaus Eggberge, which is a basic but nice, small hotel at the top of a mountain overlooking Lake Lucerne. It’s very tranquil and the views from up top are breathtaking, especially during twilight.