Introduction

Just after four in the morning, The Ghan pulls onto a siding near a town called Marla in South Australia. Marla does not have a railway station and this stop is not intended for The Ghan to drop off or pick up passengers. Rather, the stop at Marla is to allow oncoming freight trains heading from north to south to pass.

On the northbound service, passengers have a complimentary excursion on both the second and third day of their journey, which can be selected at the time of booking. The first excursion is in Alice Springs.

First Service – Breakfast at Dawn in Marla

At six in the morning there’s a gentle knock at the door to my cabin. On the first morning of the northbound journey, passengers have the opportunity to witness the sunrise outdoors while the train is on the siding in Marla. Initially, I’m tempted to just stay tucked in my warm bed, but then I figure it may be another thirty years before the opportunity arises for me to witness a sunrise in the bush. So I quickly put on some clothes and a warm jacket and hop off the train.

Outside, the crew have set up small laterns and two bonfires. They’ve also got several thermos flask with hot tea or coffee, which I’m particularly grateful for, as the outside temperature this morning is only four degrees Celsius.

I stand about sipping my coffee like the other passengers. It’s early and fortunately, nobody’s in the mood for chitchat. And then, just a few minutes later, the rising sun announces its appearance as a kaleidoscope of colours burst onto the canvas of the night sky. It’s magnificent and makes me feel suddenly very, very small and insignificant in the face of the spectacle unfolding before my eyes.

Once it grows brighter, the crew descend from the Platinum dining car holding large metal trays with bacon and egg buns, which go down nicely in the fresh morning air.

At seven thirty, passengers are invited to board the train so that The Ghan can continue on its journey to Alice Springs. I climb back on, return to my cabin and curl up in bed for a few more hours rest.

At around ten in the morning I awake again and have a quick shower in the en suite. I’m happy to report the shower is excellent considering that I’m on a train. Pressure is not bad, temperature control is easy and there is no spillage. And the Jurlique shower gel is just lovely and smells refreshing.

Second Service – Brunch

As we already had a very early light breakfast today, the second service is brunch. For this service there are no sittings, and passengers are invited to make their way to the dining car for brunch at their leisure, which is served between 10h00 and 13h00 ahead of our arrival into Alice Springs just before 14h.

I ventures into the dining car just after eleven and it’s rather quiet, which suits me just fine. The brunch is nicely done. To start I have the halloumi with toast and then the yoghurt, accompanied with three perfectly done flat white coffees. When I return to my cabin, the bed has been cleared away and the cabin is set up for day use.

Excursion to Simpsons Gap

In Alice Springs I join the excursion to Simpsons Gap just out of town. In total, the excursion takes three hours and includes a guided tour of Simpsons Gap given by a gentleman from one of the tribes indigenous to the area, which is really interesting and describes how they lived in the harsh conditions out in the wild.

Simpsons Gap is one of the most serenely beautiful places I’ve ever visited, and the conditions are just perfect. The temperature is still a bit fresh, but certainly not cold, and the gentle breeze feels like the whispered history of this stunning place being drawn on my skin.

Eventually, by the time we return to Alice Springs, it’s past five in the evening. I board The Ghan again and wait in my cabin for the passengers from the other excursions to return so we can continue our journey. The crew have placed refreshing cold towels and icy cold tea in every cabin.

Third Service – Dinner

I’m having dinner with the first sitting again, at 18h45. The amuse bouche is a tartelet with lentils. I decline the venison appetizer and start with the zucchini and basil soup, which is nice. Although I think I would have preferred a thicker consistency to the soup, the flavour is good.

For the main course, I have the dhal with cauliflower and broccoli, served with a popadom, rice, and raita. The dhal is surprisingly spicy, which I don’t mind, but which I think a dhal is not supposed to be.

After the dhal, I ask for some cheese and then the warm chocolate cake, and I’m a bit surprised when one of the attendants brings me both courses at the same tine. But I can work with that. The cheese plate is rather nice. And the warm chocolate cake is sinfully rich, with the mascarpone on top offsetting the richness of the chocolate.

Turn Down Service

After the meal, I return to my cabin, which has been prepared for the night while I was in the dining car. I have a quick look through tomorrow’s schedule, which has been placed on the bed, before getting ready for another early night.

I had a really good time today. The journey by train is a fascinating experience in its own right. And the trip to Simpsons Gap was simply stunning. It’s such a lovely place. I’m glad I chose that excursion over the others that were available.