Introduction

On the third day of The Ghan’s journey up north, the train travel through the Northern Territories to Katherine and then Darwin. This stretch of track was not opened until 2004. The southbound journey from Darwin to Adelaide is one night longer and takes four days to complete. For today’s excursion I’ve booked the cruise up the first and second gorge of the Katherine River.

First Service

We’re scheduled to arrive in Katherine by nine in the morning. Breakfast is served from 06h00 to 08h00 today and there are no sittings. Passengers can come to the dining car at their leisure. As usual, I’m awake early, so I head for the dining car just after six. I’m the only one there.

I start off with a flat white. And then for the main course, I ask for the full breakfast, but without the meat. With that, I order some toast. I just love how they make their baked bean on the train. Instead of just having them in a boring, liquidy red sauce, they are cooked in a tangy, flavorful sugo. Just lovely!

Cruising up the Katherine River

As scheduled, The Ghan pulls into Katherine at nine in the morning. Outside, I can already see the busses lined up and waiting to take passengers to their excursion of choice.

From the station, our bus drives through town first, and then onto the Victoria highway for a while before we eventually branch off and head down to the river bank.

Our guide on the boat is a friendly and knowledgeable young man named Gus, who has a rather good sense of humour. As we cruise up the river, he explains how the gorges were formed and how considerably the water level varies by the season. He also points out the occasional sweet water crocodile lazing about on a rock here and there to warm up in the sun.

In between the two gorges, there is a short walk of about 700 metres where the river is too shallow for the boat to pass without damaging the engine. But it’s a nice, scenic stroll and the weather is just beautiful.

The Mystery of the Missing Ghan

According to the train’s schedule, we should be returning to the train by 12h15 for a departure at 12h30 for the final stretch of the journey that runs to Darwin. So I’m a bit surprised when our driver announces that she’ll be taking the scenic route through Katherine. Which wouldn’t actually seem so strange if there were anything else to see in town other than the Nitmuluk river. Clearly, our driver is stalling and trying to buy some time.

Eventually, we arrive back at the station at 12h45, only to discover that our train has vanished. The old lady standing next to me suggests that maybe we just can’t see it from where we’re standing. And just for the briefest if moments, I’m tempted to put on a fake Belgian French accent and point out to her that, “but where, Madame, do you propose sat it is ‘idden, se train?”. After all, making a train the size of The Ghan disappear is no easy feat.

But before I can get too excited, Seb, the steward for my car, explains that the train had to be moved to a siding to let a freight train pass, and should be back at the platform shortly. Sensing my disappointment at the somewhat underwhelming and decidedly not so mysterious mystery of the vanishing Ghan, Seb points out that least this way I get a chance to take a photo of the business end of The Ghan as the train slowly pulls into the station. Fair enough.

When I return to my room, there’s another glass of ice tea and a cold towel waiting for me. I quickly wash my hands and then head to the dining car for lunch.

Second Service: Lunch

Lunch is served between 13h00 and 15h15, when the crew will need to start preparing the train for our arrival in Darwin. Despite the delay leaving Katherine, we should be arriving in Darwin on time, at 17h10.

For my last meal on The Ghan, I have the toasted carrots and feta cheese salad, which is served with lightly toasted flatbread. For dessert, I have the mango parfait, mainly because mangos are an important part of the local economy here in Katherine. I must admit though, that it’s a bit of a let down and, strictly speaking, not really a parfait and more of a cream.

The meal finishes off with a flat white served with friandises. I thank all the crew for having taken such good care of me on the train, and then return to my cabin to finish packing my bags.

Arrival into Darwin

The Darwin terminus is actually nowhere near the centre of Darwin. In a complete reversal of the situation in Europe, here the station is even further out if town than the airport.

We slowly pull into the station. Craig, the purser, has already told me when he came to say goodbye that my bus will be the number three. It’s a pretty neat set up the have here. The complimentary transfer busses for platinum passengers pull up onto the platform, right next to the train. From there, we’re first shuttled to the terminal where passengers with checked baggage can pick up their belongings. And then from there we head straight for the hotels. The trip from the Darwin terminus to the Mercure Resort at Darwin airport takes twenty minutes.

Conclusion

This trip on The Ghan was totally worth it and so much fun. I’m not even sure where do begin. I think what impressed me most was just how well organized the whole experience was and the very obvious detail that has gone into the creation of an unforgettable experience. From the spacious layout of the Platinum Twin Cabin to the excellently trained and friendly crews and the seamless transfer in Darwin, the people at Journey Beyond (the company that operates The Ghan) have thought of everything. On my way to the station in Adelaide, I did worry for a moment what on earth I was going to do for three days on a train. Much to my surprise, though, the time actually passed rather quickly.

I also greatly enjoyed the two excursions to Simpsons Gap near Alice Springs and to Nitmuluk Gorge on the outskirts of Katherine. And that is where I see one of the big advantages of The Ghan. If, like me, you don’t have a driver’s licence, The Ghan is a great way to see parts of Australia that you would otherwise miss, simply because they’re impossible to get to without your own ground transport.